When Rittmeister von Stephanitz first brought attention to
the German Shepherd Dog as a recognized breed, there were two
varieties of coat in the dogs, long coat and the short stock coat
most often seen today. Stephanitz, recognizing the incredible
versatility of this dog, in 1899, established the SV (Schaferhund-Verein).
This breed club established rules for the German Shepherd Dog
including tests for working ability (schutzhund) and breed
conformation. Unfortunately, Stephanitz believed that the long
coat pups lacked undercoat and therefore would not have the
weather resistant versatility he desired in the breed. However,
because of their outstanding abilities, long coats were also
admitted into the show ring, but they were given a lower rating
for the coat. Coat length was not originally a disqualification.
Over time, the FCI and the VDH, naturally began to view long coat
as non standard and therefore eventually rejected, from
competition in conformation, this type of coat. Until recently
that is. As of 2010, the SV standard in Germany for the German
Shepherd Dog will be changed to read: "The German Shepherd Dog is
bred in the hair varieties Stock Hair and Longstock Hair, both
with undercoat." This is an exciting development for long coated
fanciers.
Throughout the years, even during the time when the long
coated shepherd was not permitted in the show ring, long coat
pups continued in the gene pool of the German Shepherd Dog. They
are admired for their beauty, working ability, and their
outstanding balanced and trainable temperament. It is because of
these special qualities, that many people, especially those who
have owned one and come to cherish the pleasant disposition that
generally follows the long coats, have worked to have the German
Shepherd Breed organizations once again recognize the different
varieties of coat.
Horst Hegewalk-Kawich has written a book on longhairs,
called Ratgeber Langhaar-Schaferhund . This book details the
unswerving commitment and love that breeders of long haired
shepherds have for these magnificent animals.
Talk to anyone who has owned a long-coated shepherd and they
will not only describe in glowing terms the dog's beauty, but they
will undoubtedly tell you about a dog unmatched by others in terms
of loyalty, trainability, and unbeatable temperament.
A crate can
be used for housetraining, and when used correctly, the dog learns
to look upon it as its own private retreat or den. The pup will
seek out the crate when it wants to rest undisturbed or to feel
safe or secure.
The crate's
success as a housetraining tool is simple. Puppies will not soil
their sleeping area if they can possibly avoid it. But remember
that a puppy needs time to play. Use the crate when you can't
watch your puppy, but don't overuse it.
Crates come
in different styles and sizes. Choose one that will be large
enough for an adult dog of your breed to lie down, stand up and
turn around in easily.
Put the
crate in a room close to other family members to lessen the pup's
anxieties. Move the crate at night to the bedroom so the puppy
will feel like a member of the family.
Remove the
puppy's collar before placing it in the crate. For the first few
times the puppy goes in the crate he may cry or whine. Give him a
treat when you place him in the crate, close the door, then leave
the room but remain close by. At the first bark or whine or howl,
intervene with a sharp "No". Your pup should associate the
reprimand with its actions and stop. It may take four or five
tries, but it will eventually settle down.
Once the
pup is quiet, keep it in the crate for 30 to 45 minutes. If it
begins to cry, take it outside to relieve itself. Once that is
accomplished, praise the pup, give it a treat, and take it back
inside and allow it free time outside the crate. If it starts
chewing on something other than its toys, respond with a sharp
"NO!" take the object away and replace it with a toy.
After 15-20
minutes of playtime, put the pup back in the crate for a nap.
Correct the pup if he cries. Your pup learns through association,
so consistency should help it accept being in the crate after a
few times. After about an hour, take it out again and repeat this
process.
Your pup
will need to eliminate directly on waking and shortly after eating
or playing. Also, a very young pup will not be able to hold its
urine all night, so be prepared to take it out during the night.
Immediately
after letting the puppy out of the crate, rush the pup to the door
or carry it if it is small so it can avoid an accident. Watch to
be sure that it relieves itself once you are outside.
Gradually lengthen the amount of time your puppy is allowed to
play out of the crate after going outside.
Housebreaking is not accomplished quickly, so be consistent and
patient.
The crate also aids in curbing
destructive behavior, such as chewing. As your puppy matures and
shows it can be left loose in the house, give it that privilege.
Keep the
crate set up with the door open so that the puppy will be able to
go to his "den" anytime he wants.
When used properly, the crate is an
effective useful tool that not only assists in helping your new
puppy become housetrained, but a safe haven for it. Use it
wisely, it is a special gift for both of you.
SPAYING/NEUTERING:
Spaying or neutering your new puppy is the right
thing to do if you're not planning on breeding. For most pet
owners, the expense, time and expertise involved in breeding dogs
responsibly is beyond their reach. Here are some advantages to
having your puppy spayed or neutered:
-
For females,
there is no mess to deal with during their 21-day heat cycles,
which occur every six months—the heat cycle begins in females
sometime after six months of age.
-
Spaying a
female before her first heat cycle will reduce the chance of
mammary tumors or uterine diseases.
-
Neutered males
tend to be less aggressive than unneutered males.
-
With a
neutered male, the urge to mark territory may lessen.
-
A neutered
male is less likely to want to roam in search of potential
mates.
When to
spay or neuter
Dogs should be spayed or neutered by the time they
are six months old. Both operations are performed under anesthesia
and may require an overnight stay at the veterinarian's office.
Recovery time is quick, with most dogs resuming normal activity in
a few days. Spaying (for females) consists of an ovario-hysterectomy.
Neutering involves the removal of the testicles.
When you bring your puppy to the veterinarian's
office for his first thorough examination, have the doctor explain
the operation in detail and set up a time to have the procedure
done.
